Brush off the cobwebs

Now that time is a bit more on my side I can brush off the cobwebs and see if this thing still works. Hopefully the 38th parallel will still be in one piece by the time I'm finished.

Day 3

Ah, Day three consisted of my first trip to National Taiwan University, the administrative section at least, for an interview with Professor Wu of NTU's Dep. of Economics. Another compelling discussion on Taiwan - this time from the point of view of its economic history, know to be one of four success stories in the Pacific rim.

Known as the 'Four Tigers'; Taiwan, Singapore, South Korea and Hong Kong are all known for something a global affairs major rarely encounters in his/her studies: economic development that actually worked. Something new I've come to understand is that not only did Taiwan industrialize/modernize with relative success but it was done alone, with limited natural resources, and under intense pressure from the PRC - which by the time Carter left office had become the one China the world came to recognize for the most part. (Taiwan to this day is still recognized by 23 "mostly tiny" nations)
[http://in.reuters.com/article/worldNews/idINIndia-31410420080115]

It should be said though that perhaps outside nations having limited influence on the economy of Taiwan probably helped as much as it hurt. Africa is a compilation of examples for what happens in a post-colonial landscape when those nations rollback political control but maintain economic influence. Apples and Oranges I know; but still fruit that can be harvested, regrown, or simply squeezed for its pulp.

After my talk with Professor Wu #2 I braved the clouds of mosquitos amongst the courtyard of the NTU Admin. campus to make my to the street. I decided to stick with my plan of walking towards a landmark after each of the interviews - in this case I put Taipei 101 in my sights and set off. It couldn't have gone better: block after block of hovels, stores, stands, lush fern-covered alleyways, porches and stoops encrusted with dozens of smiling Formosans playing checkers and smoking their never-ending cigarettes.

I should mention at this time just how fun/dangerous walking through Taipei is. The traffic moves with a much faster rhythm than what I'm used to in the states and the mix of homicidal taxis and suicidal scooter-riders left me feeling I could make this trip into an action movie. The massive Taipei 101 skyscraper was probably only a few miles away but navigating the streets seemed to take forever, and in the Taiwan humidity you lose a lot of water weight even walking a few blocks.

Got some decent pics of the building itself and numerous places on the way and was ready to go home and sleep by 3pm. I'm saving a trip to the highest building in Asia for later this week.

Day 2 (part 2)

After leaving the IIR I walked a couple blocks to the front gate of NCCU where I met Professor Li, and expert on the PRC and China-Taiwan relations, for my second interview. He treated me to my first authentic Taiwanese dish: a thick melange of beef noodles with boiled vegetables in a delicious sauce. I should've taken a picture of that manna from heaven.

The fears I harbored for my digestive system when the bowl was placed before me quickly disappeared as it was both delicious and filling. The conversation during our meal was fantastic - it turns out Professor Li is also an avid movie-buff and we expounded on The Godfather, Silence of the Lambs, Ed Wood (he even heard of the original movie Plan 9 from Outer Space **shivers**). He really had me a-snickering when he went into a 10 minute rant on how bad Michael Bay's movies are. At the mention of 'Armageddon' he pursed his lips downward and made a wincing face that I could really identify with when it comes to bad movie reactions.

After lunch we went to a common room of one of the NCCU buildings that overlooked the river. The next hour was filled with discussion on the Chinese revolution and the difficult relationship between Taiwan and the PRC. The rain began at about 3:30pm and boy when it rains it pours here. I thanked Professor Li for a wonderful time and set off towards NCCU again.

I got soaked but it was worth it to see the clouds so low to the hills. Maybe if I can jerry-rig something I'll take pictures when it rains again - I couldn't risk taking the camera out with it raining that much. The storms form off in the distance and as they descend on the city the clouds hug the hillsides and roll down until all the rain has left their fat bellies. Immediately I thumbed my wiley ipod touch to The Doors, Riders on the Storm; if you think it sounds corny then please remember to kick yourself for not joining me there: one of the most beautiful movements of nature I've ever seen, the landscape's inevitable consumption by the encroaching cumulonimbus.

All that walking turned out to be the perfect cure for jetlag as sleep followed only seconds after i returned to the International House.

Day 2 (part 1)

Day 2 began with my first attempt to manage the Taiwanese streets, with better results than my first day. My very first interview for the trip was with Professor Jaushieh Wu of The Institute for International Relations - an expert on U.S.-Taiwanese relations. I was refreshingly clear-headed going into the discussion (I'm prone to out-psyching myself, my passion getting the best of me); Professor Wu's eagerness to help me and my lil project only served as motivation.

The one setback we encountered during our talk involved a man and an electric chisel.

"So the implications of the Japanese occupation **BUZZZZZZZZZZZ** until the mid-1960s when the PRC **BUZZZZZZZ**. At this time the Carter administration **BUZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ**."

The IIR is located in a valley-like cul de sac surrounded on three sides by gorgeous tropical foliage. The environment, though beautiful, failed to absorb the biting sounds of a sidewalk being replaced right under us. Needless to say everyone in the building could feel it so there was no escape. The situation, though a bit nerve-racking, gave the both of us a good laugh after a while: there was a point when Professor Wu was about to answer a question before taking a sip of tea and that heaven shattering buzz rang out at just the right moment and we shared some guffaws.

I'll need to brush-up on my production skills to clean up the audio but the knowledge I gained from the interview made it absolutely worthwhile despite any interruption. I managed to snap a pic of said chisler and will post it as soon as I get a chance.

Day 1 (continued)

Yesterday I met with my advisers at NCCU who were more than helpful in seeking prospective interviewees. Since then I've 5 confirmed interviews spread throughout my stay here, two of which I'm preparing for now. First I'm meeting Professor Wu of the Institute for International relations - an expert on U.S.-Taiwanese relations. Next I'm having lunch with Professor Li of the NCCU Grad. Institute for Taiwanese History which will be primarily on the PRC and Cross-Straight Relations between Taiwan and the Mainland.

I can't wait, the jetlag and excitement woke me at 5am (5pm in the U.S.) and I've been going over my questions all morning.

After emailing the professors on my list I swiflty sniffed out the closest 7-11 (they had one on campus) and purchased Nescafe', Toblerone and a quart of lemonade. After my small lunch of champions I made my way down to the bus stop that takes you back to the IH. I chose to ride on the wrong bus and sat back for a cheap tour round the city sans a chattering guide.

The pictures of Taipei 101 are coming soon - I need a day devoted completely to poking about the city proper.

Until then, Zai Jian

Day 1

Ironic to see this big red sign as soon as I get off the plane. The characters Xiang and Jia literally meaning "Miss Home", I certainly don't need the reminder: there's 10 days left in Formosa!

The cab-ride from the airport to the "International House", (the student dormitory I'm staying in), was beautiful. Across the freeway going south, the car eventually made a steep climb passed dozens of mopeds and a few stray dogs to a yellow-brown motelesque building tucked into the hillside.

This morning I went for a short walk to either end of the street outside the IH and the view is spectacular. Since the building has a high elevation anyone staying here gets a nice view as an added bonus. I crave to jog down into the valley below to poke around in the shops, but there'll be time for that later.

Today I'm going to NCCU to meet with the faculty of the Graduate Institute for Taiwanese History. I can't think of anything more intellectually pleasing than sitting down with professionals to absorb their knowledge. Again, I've only been studying Taiwan since the winter and to have a chance to listen not only to experts but native experts on the country's history leaves me giddy. I have to admit I was the only passenger awake when we landed, panting like a doberman, a mile-wide grin on my face.

I'll be back tonight with an update and more pictures especially.

Zai Jian until then

Twas the Night Before the Trip

...and all through the house not a creature was stirring except yours truly packing mediocre clothes into a blue duffel bag.

I stand at the brink ladies and gentlemen, as if I haven't hyped this up enough yet, you'll just have to get used to my giddiness. My body grows but the passion and humor never go away: as I dance in my room to The Doors throwing belts and socks on the bed. "Peacefrog"s a great song to wake up and get ready to in the morning - same for packing for trips for Taiwan for school.

The jabs about me causing an international incident in the Pacific, or that it's Thailand I'm visiting and not for school; are all appreciated. I've had running obsessions first with Japan, then Hong Kong, and China with Taiwan as the newest addition. My trip feels like a massive blind date in a way: what I've know/learned/seen about Taiwan has come from books and articles online.

Gathering intel on the country from all the myriad sources has shown me an avenue in which to steer this week-long blind date. Not a whole lot of movies out there on the history of Taiwan, "Tug of War" is decent. The focus of attention constantly bends in the direction of China, without which Taiwan as we see it today would be completely different if not for the mainland.

After WWII ended, China's two major political/revolutionary parties had to settle the score for control of the middle kingdom. The Communists under Mao beat the Nationalists under Chiang Kai-Shek forcing him and his troops to relocate to Taiwan in 1949. From then on it was a steady though difficult climb up from an agricutural economy to one of industrial development. This transition lasted about four decades; and was done without help from the international community which increasingly shut Taiwan out of the global scene by cutting ties and officially recognizing the mainland under Mao and the Chinese Communist Party.

That 'problem' I mentioned stems from the above selection in that too big a majority of movies on Taiwanese history start in 1945 with the Nationalist exodus. But its not like the island wasn't there before - it just wasn't as loud as the rest of the world at the time. In 1895 Taiwan became Japan's frist colonial possesion, and kept it under its imperial administration for half a century. The physical ease to which Taiwan developed industrially is an aknowledgement to the ingenuity of their former occupiers. Japan poured a lot of resources to develop its first colony and this motivation to make it closer to the top with their colonial peers at the time ended up laying the groundwork for Taiwan's future economic success.

I'm off now to fold more clothes and "borrow" some extra batteries from my roomates.

Zai Jian until next time